Notes from the Field - Malawi

Our Senior Sales Consultant Cameron Raffan shares his recent discoveries from his latest trip to Malawi.

Thirteen years after my last visit to Malawi, I returned in November 2025 to discover how much had changed. With remarkable conservation achievements, beautiful lakeside retreats and some of Africa’s lesser-explored landscapes, I wanted to see whether Malawi deserves a bigger place on the African safari map.

Known as the Warm Heart of Africa, Malawi has a warmth, diversity and sense of adventure that set it apart from more established safari destinations.

Having spent much of my career guiding safaris, managing lodges and exploring Africa’s wilderness areas, I was particularly interested in the restoration of Malawi’s wildlife.

African Parks has achieved extraordinary conservation success in Liwonde National Park and Majete Wildlife Reserve. But conservation success and a rewarding safari experience aren’t necessarily the same thing. I wanted to see what these destinations could genuinely offer our clients.

Over nine nights, I travelled from Lilongwe to Lake Malawi, through Liwonde, Zomba and Majete, before finishing among the beautiful tea estates of Thyolo.

What I discovered was a wonderfully contrasting country, with some real surprises along the way.

Lilongwe: A Warm Welcome to Malawi

My journey began at Latitude 13°, a stylish hotel in Lilongwe with the atmosphere of a private members’ club.

It’s a comfortable, welcoming place to settle in after an international flight, and somewhere I would happily recommend for a first night before heading out to explore the country.

Travelling Through Malawi: The Journey Is Part of the Experience

One of the things I enjoyed most about Malawi was travelling overland.

Unlike destinations where light aircraft transfers are almost essential, much of Malawi can be explored by road, passing through rural communities, mountain landscapes and beautiful stretches of countryside.

The scenery along the escarpments is extraordinary, although road conditions require some patience. Certain stretches towards Lake Malawi are badly potholed, making journeys slow and bumpy.

We travelled with our local partners, Crafted Africa, whose exceptionally well-prepared vehicles made a real difference. With extended fuel capacity, they’re equipped for a country where fuel availability can occasionally be unpredictable.

For families especially, careful route planning, suitable vehicles and realistic journey times are essential.

Lake Malawi: Beautiful Beaches and Island Adventures

Lake Malawi is one of the country’s greatest attractions, offering sandy beaches, warm tropical surroundings and a wonderful variety of water-based activities.

I explored two very different properties, each with its own appeal.

The Makokola Retreat: A Fantastic Family Escape

I absolutely loved The Makokola Retreat.

Set among beautiful tropical grounds beside a wonderful sandy beach, this is somewhere I could easily imagine spending several days with my own family.

The resort offers an excellent range of activities on land and water, the grounds are beautifully maintained and the food was superb.

What impressed me most was how easily it caters for different ages and interests. Parents can enjoy some downtime while children have plenty to keep them entertained.

For families looking to combine a Malawi safari with a beach holiday, Makokola would be very high on my list.

Mumbo Island: A Genuine Destination Experience

Mumbo Island had been on my bucket list since I first heard about it in 2011.

The location is extraordinary. This tiny island in Lake Malawi National Park is surrounded by clear water, rocky shores and an incredible diversity of colourful freshwater fish.

Snorkelling among Lake Malawi’s endemic cichlids was a real highlight, as was watching African fish eagles swooping towards the water during our catamaran excursion.

Mumbo isn’t somewhere you visit for polished luxury, It’s a destination experience.

The opportunity to explore a beautiful island, snorkel, kayak and enjoy its remarkable natural surroundings is what makes it special.

For adventurous families, couples and nature lovers, Mumbo offers something wonderfully different.

Liwonde National Park: Malawi’s Safari Success Story

Liwonde was one of the destinations I was most excited to revisit.

African Parks has transformed the park through wildlife protection and reintroductions, including lions, cheetahs, rhinos and African wild dogs.

But how would the game viewing compare with Africa’s better-known safari destinations?

Kuthengo Camp: An Authentic Safari Experience

My first stop was Kuthengo Camp, a beautiful little property on the Shire River.

This is exactly the style of camp that appeals to me: intimate, authentic and wonderfully connected to its surroundings.

Wildlife moves through the camp, the main area overlooks the river and there’s a lovely sense of privacy.

Activities include game drives, boat safaris and guided walks.

Kuthengo sits further north than Mvuu, away from some of the park’s principal game-viewing areas. It’s an important consideration, although the camp’s atmosphere and beautiful setting offer plenty in return.

For travellers who appreciate smaller, traditional safari camps, Kuthengo has enormous appeal.

Mvuu Lodge and Camp: Excellent Wildlife Access

Further south, Mvuu Lodge and Mvuu Camp benefit from excellent access to some of Liwonde’s most productive wildlife areas.

Both offer a wonderful variety of activities, including boat safaris, game drives and a superb woodland wildlife hide.

The two properties cater to different budgets and preferences.

Mvuu Camp represents excellent value, particularly for families seeking an accessible and activity-rich safari.

Mvuu Lodge is the more exclusive option, offering greater comfort and privacy, particularly suited to couples. Significant renovation work was taking place around the time of my visit.

The Wildlife: Elephants, Lions and Extraordinary Birdlife

So, what about the wildlife?

The elephants were absolutely outstanding.

Some of my favourite encounters happened from the boat on the Shire River, watching elephants along the banks at wonderfully close quarters.

We enjoyed lovely lion sightings too. Cheetahs and rhinos remained elusive, although there was plenty of evidence of their presence. The wild dog reintroduction has faced greater challenges.

The birdlife was phenomenal, with riverine habitats, floodplains and woodland providing exceptional diversity.

I came away genuinely impressed.

Liwonde absolutely holds its own as a standalone safari destination.

For first-time safari travellers, it offers an exciting introduction to African wildlife. For those who have already experienced the Serengeti, Maasai Mara or Kruger, it offers something refreshingly different.

It may not deliver the same intensity of big-game sightings, but its river experiences, atmosphere and diversity are tremendous.

Zomba Plateau: History, Hiking and Birdwatching

Leaving Liwonde, we travelled south towards Zomba, Malawi’s former capital.

This is a wonderful destination for introducing history, culture and outdoor adventure into a holiday.

The town has colonial-era architecture and bustling markets, while the magnificent Zomba Plateau offers forest trails, mountain scenery and excellent hiking.

We stayed at Kefi Hotel Café, a convenient base for exploring the area.

I also visited Zomba Forest Lodge, a charming, homely property with a strong connection to the surrounding ecology and conservation.

For travellers wanting to immerse themselves in the forests of the Zomba Massif, it’s a lovely option.

As a keen birder, I was particularly interested in the area’s specialist forest species, including the Yellow-throated Apalis, Malawi’s only endemic bird.

Zomba deserves serious consideration for anyone interested in birdwatching, hiking or experiencing a different side of Malawi.

Majete Wildlife Reserve: Remarkable Conservation and a Challenging Safari

Majete was another destination I was particularly keen to explore.

Since African Parks began managing the reserve in 2003, an extraordinary restoration programme has returned numerous wildlife species, transforming what had become a severely depleted ecosystem.

The conservation achievement is remarkable. But the safari experience requires a little more explanation.

Mkulumadzi: One of Malawi’s Finest Safari Lodges

We spent two nights at Mkulumadzi, and what a beautiful lodge it is.

In terms of design, setting and atmosphere, I would comfortably place Mkulumadzi alongside some of the finest safari lodges I’ve visited anywhere in Africa.

The bush chalets blend beautifully into their surroundings, and the property offers a wonderful balance of luxury, privacy and wilderness.

It could hold its own in almost any of Africa’s major safari destinations.

The Reality of Game Viewing in Majete

Wildlife viewing, however, was challenging.

Much of Majete is covered in dense woodland and bush, making sightings considerably harder than in the open landscapes of the Serengeti or Maasai Mara.

We spent considerable time tracking lions along the road network, eventually locating them feeding deep in the vegetation.

We were incredibly close, but the dense bush prevented a clear view.

Personally, I enjoyed the challenge. Tracking wildlife, interpreting signs and working with a knowledgeable guide are all part of what I love about being in the bush.

But this isn’t necessarily the experience every safari traveller wants.

Sightings can depend heavily on the road network, watering holes and patience.

The birdlife was excellent, and exploring the lower Shire River landscapes added another dimension.

Would I recommend Majete? Absolutely, but to the right traveller.

For a first-time safari focused on frequent big-game sightings, I would generally prioritise Liwonde.

For experienced safari travellers who enjoy tracking, conservation and simply being immersed in wilderness, Majete offers a rewarding escape.

Thyolo Tea Estates: The Perfect Ending

Our final night was at Huntingdon House, set within the beautiful Satemwa Tea Estate in Thyolo.

I absolutely loved it.

Having previously lived in Sri Lanka and worked around tea estates, these landscapes hold a particular appeal for me.

Huntingdon House is full of character, with beautiful grounds, excellent food and all the quirks of a historic colonial-era estate house.

One of my favourite moments of the journey was enjoying sundowners among the tea plantations, overlooking the surrounding highlands.

Our excellent guide brought the estate’s history and tea production to life.

The area’s remaining pockets of indigenous highland forest also offer rewarding opportunities for specialist birdwatching.

Huntingdon House works beautifully at either end of a southern Malawi itinerary, and was the perfect finish before flying out of Blantyre.

Is Malawi a Good Alternative to Kenya or Tanzania?

Having experienced Malawi again, I believe it offers a compelling alternative for travellers seeking something different.

A carefully planned Malawi safari and beach holiday can combine outstanding elephant encounters, authentic safari camps, beautiful lakeside accommodation, mountain hiking, specialist birdwatching and fascinating cultural experiences.

Importantly, much of this can be achieved without needing expensive internal flights.

Can Malawi Offer Better Value?

It certainly can, depending on accommodation choices and how the journey is arranged.

Malawi won’t replace Kenya or Tanzania for travellers whose priority is the Great Migration or consistently high densities of big game.

But for families looking for wildlife, adventure and beach relaxation, it can be a fantastic option.

A combination of Mvuu Camp and The Makokola Retreat, for example, offers excellent safari activities followed by a relaxed lakeside holiday.

For experienced travellers, combining Kuthengo, Majete and the Thyolo tea estates creates something entirely different.

The flexibility to balance affordable accommodation with more exclusive experiences is one of Malawi’s greatest strengths.

How Long Should You Spend in Malawi?

My nine-night journey was an intensive exploration of several destinations and properties.

For most clients, I would recommend a slower pace.

Ten to fourteen nights gives you time to enjoy a safari and lake combination properly, with opportunities to introduce Zomba, Majete or the tea estates depending on your interests.

Choosing which destinations to leave out is often just as important as deciding what to include.

Final Thoughts: Why Malawi Deserves More Attention

Returning to Malawi was something I’d wanted to do for a long time.

I arrived with fond memories, plenty of curiosity and a fairly critical eye when it came to the wildlife.

I left genuinely impressed.

The transformation of Liwonde and Majete is extraordinary, the accommodation can be exceptional, and the diversity of experiences is remarkable.

One day we were watching elephants from a boat on the Shire River. Another we were snorkelling among colourful fish in Lake Malawi. Then we were hiking through mountain forests, tracking lions or enjoying sundowners overlooking tea plantations.

It’s this variety that makes Malawi so special.

For families, it offers wildlife, adventure and lakeside relaxation. For experienced safari travellers, there are new landscapes to explore.

For birders and nature lovers, it is a destination deserving far more recognition.

Malawi won’t be right for every safari holiday, but for the right traveller, it can be absolutely exceptional, get in touch now for a friendly chat to start planning your dream safari.

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