Notes from the Field - Uganda

What is Uganda really like on the ground?

Our very own Senior Sales Consultant, Rosanna Pile, recently travelled through the country and came back with plenty to share.

From thrilling wildlife encounters, discovering new lodges to unforgettable moments in the forest, here’s her first-hand account of travelling through Uganda.

When most travellers dream of Uganda, two iconic images instantly spring to mind: deep, mist-wrapped rainforests and the soul-stirring eyes of a mountain gorilla. And while standing just meters from these gentle giants is unquestionably one of planet Earth’s ultimate bucket-list privileges, focusing solely on primates misses half the magic of this extraordinarily varied country.

I recently embarked on a fact-finding journey through Uganda to explore its rich tapestry of landscapes, wildlife, and luxurious new retreats.

From tracking white rhinos on foot and witnessing the thunderous power of Murchison Falls to discovering Asilia’s breathtaking new sanctuary perched on the edge of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda proved itself to be a country with surprises around every corner.

On foot with Rhinos and High in the canopy at Budongo Forest

My journey began with a peaceful overnight stay at Karibu Entebbe, a charming boutique hotel within easy reach of the airport and the perfect spot to brush off the flight before setting out. The following morning, I set off with my private guide on a four-day overland expedition organized by the wonderful team at Experience Uganda.

Leaving the bustle of Entebbe behind, our first destination was the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. Established in 2005 to reintroduce Southern White Rhinos back into the wild, the project started with just six rhinos and has flourished to around 50 today.

Accompanied by one of the sanctuary’s dedicated rangers, we set off on foot into the bush. There is a heart-pounding thrill to tracking these gentle giants on foot, and coming face-to-face with them in their natural habitat was an unforgettable start to the trip.

Back on the road, we arrived at the beautiful new Padibi Lodge by Great Lakes, situated right on the fringe of the sprawling Budongo Forest. It is an intimate, beautifully finished base that places you directly on the doorstep of one of East Africa’s most vibrant ecosystems.

The following morning brought my first Uganda primate encounter: chimpanzee trekking in Budongo Forest.

A scenic 50-minute walk through the lush undergrowth brought us within ten meters of a wild chimp community. For two mesmerizing hours, we followed them through the canopy as they played, groomed, and communicated, very loudly, with each other.

The sheer volume of their calls was staggering; drum-like hooting echoed through the trees as they coordinated movements to nearby feeding areas. It was raw, energetic, and completely spellbinding.

Game Drives and Roaring Waters at Murchison Falls

From Budongo, a short one-hour drive brought us to the shores of the Victoria Nile and the Nile Safari Lodge. Featuring exceptionally spacious timber suites, a stunning open-sided dining area, and an infinity pool directly overlooking the river, it is a magnificent lodge from which to explore Murchison Falls National Park.

That afternoon, we ventured out into the park for a game drive into the Murchison Falls National Park. The sheer diversity of wildlife was fantastic and delightfully unexpected: within a few hours, we spotted lions lounging in the shade, herds of giraffe silhouetted against the setting sun, elephants, impala, and even a rare, elusive striped hyena.

The following morning started early, always my favourite time of day in the bush. Watching the landscape come alive as the sun rises, topped off with a delicious breakfast spread served right in the middle of the savannah, is hard to beat.

After lunch and an hour relaxing at the lodge, I boarded a private boat for a sundowner river cruise along the Victoria Nile. We floated lazily past wallowing hippos, Nile crocodiles, water buffalo hiding in the reeds, and an unbelievable array of birdlife.

My personal highlight, sitting quietly on the water, watching vibrant, red-breasted bee-eaters darting in and out of the riverbanks.

As we drifted further upstream, a deep, rumbling thunder began to vibrate through the air. Suddenly, the legendary Murchison Falls burst into view.

Known as the most powerful waterfall in the world, the entire width of the massive Nile River is violently squeezed through a narrow seven-meter rocky gap, churning into a frothing cauldron of spray and rainbows.

Before bidding farewell to Nile Safari Lodge the next day, I took a guided walk to the top of the falls.

Standing at the brink, gazing down into the roaring “Devil’s Cauldron” and taking in views of the adjacent Uhuru Falls framed by dazzling rainbows, was a true highlight of the northern circuit.

Into the Mist at Asilia’s Erebero Hills

Leaving Murchison behind, I returned to Entebbe for the night before catching a short scenic flight to Kihihi airstrip, the gateway to the legendary Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

The two-hour drive from the airstrip up towards Bwindi gives you a real sense of rural Ugandan life.

We wove through bustling villages, passed terraced hillsides dotted with tea and coffee plantations, and drove alongside traditional brick kilns smoking by the roadside.

Soon, the smooth tarmac gave way to classic, rich orange dirt roads. As our vehicle climbed steadily into the highlands, the air grew noticeably crisp and cool.

Just as we reached the forest boundary, a gentle mountain rain began to fall. In that exact moment, the famous phrase Gorillas in the Mist shifted from a catchy book title to a tangible, breathtaking reality.

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest consists of two large green forest zones connected by a narrow neck of protected land. The winding mountain road to Erebero Hills takes you right through this narrow strip, offering unbelievable views on either side where rich emerald-green tea plantations cover the valleys.

Then, as we crested a final ridge, we arrived at Erebero Hills, Asilia’s very first lodge in Uganda.

In the local language, Erebero translates to “a place where you can see far,” and the location lives up to its name in every way.

Perched dramatically on the hillside, the lodge looks directly across a deep valley where the ancient trees of Bwindi rise up like dense, towering florets of broccoli on the opposite slope. Architecturally, it is an absolute masterpiece, featuring eight intricately eco designed forest suites with uninterrupted, sweeping views across the misty forest canopy.

The Main Event: Gorilla Trekking in Ruhija

Waking up early to the sounds of the forest certainly set the scene for the day ahead, mountain gorilla trekking in the Ruhija section of Bwindi.

After a briefing at the headquarters, and some entertaining dancing, we were given our gorilla family: the Happy group (a dynamic breakaway group from the famous Orunzogo family).

Accompanied by local porters, whose steady hands and encouragement proved invaluable as we navigated the steep forest slopes, we trekked upward through dense vegetation for an hour and a half.

Eventually, the nearby park rangers who monitor the troop called out from the bush ahead. A few steps through the thick foliage, and there they were…

Our very first sighting took our breath away: a massive, majestic silverback sat quietly in a small clearing, keeping a watchful, protective eye over a mother cradling her tiny infant. Moments later, the family’s playful toddlers stole the show tumbling over vines, wrestling in the leaves, and chasing each other up low-hanging branches.

For one full hour, we sat in spellbound silence, absorbing the privilege of sharing the same mountain air with these incredible creatures. Gorilla trekking is truly a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Nothing compares to the heart-pounding, humbling magic of standing just meters away from a gorilla family in the wild.

Beyond the unforgettable thrill, every trekking permit directly supports local conservation, funding dedicated rangers, anti-poaching patrols, and the critical protection of the ancient forests these gorillas call home.

Returning to Erebero Hills mid-afternoon, brimming with joy and awe, we spent the remainder of the day indulging in soothing foot massages by the stunning pool to revive our weary feet.

Beyond the Gorillas: Swamps, Endemics, and Cultural Heritage

While the gorillas are the undeniable stars, staying at Erebero Hills opened our eyes to the rich, often overlooked layers of Bwindi.

We embarked on an energetic 12 km walk into the Mubwindi Swamp, an absolute paradise for birdwatching enthusiasts.

Bwindi is home to numerous Albertine Rift endemics, and we were treated to clear sightings of the rare African Green Broadbill, a species endemic to this specific pocket of the park! Alongside it, our guides pointed out the striking Rwenzori Batis and the vibrant Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater.

It was a long trek with several steep climbs but infinitely rewarding.

Perhaps the most poignant chapter of our journey was spending time learning about the Batwa people, the indigenous hunter-gatherers who were the original custodians of the forest before it was designated a national park.

Because the Batwa no longer live inside the national park boundaries, Asilia has partnered with Change a Life Bwindi on an inspiring long-term project to support sustainable livelihoods, reforestation, and education in the region.

Through the Batwa Cultural Experience, guided directly by community members, we gained profound insight into a way of life shaped by the forest over thousands of years.

They demonstrated how various forest roots, leaves, and bark provide powerful natural remedies, shared traditional tracking techniques, and explained how their ancestors lived in complete, sustainable harmony with nature.

Leaving with a Soulful Passion for Uganda

As our light aircraft lifted off the runway at Kihihi for the flight back to Entebbe, I looked down at the rich green folds of Uganda fading into the distance.

Sitting meters away from a silverback gorilla or listening to chimps call through the rainforest canopy are bucket-list moments that will stay with me forever.

But Uganda’s true magic lies in everything that happens between those moments: the roar of Murchison Falls, the vibrant green tea plantations, the warm local villages, and the deep cultural heritage of the Batwa people.

Uganda is so much more than a primate destination, it is one of Africa’s most complete, captivating, and soulful journeys get in touch now for a friendly chat to start planning your dream safari.

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